some good first ponder advice

[brokensword]

here's a list I put together one year, mainly for newbie ponders but anyone can learn!

1. at least 2' deep in winter snow/ice regions, with 4'-5' deep preferable.
2. one liner for pond AND bog, or if separate, bog liner 6" higher than pond water level and extending 6" into and over pond liner
3. ideally, bog filtration surface area to be 30% of pond surface area if going 12" deep with the bog, which is typical. Can go deeper and % lowers but not linealy.
4. bog filter with 12" of pea gravel as a minimum. More volume is better.
5. waterfall on opposite side of pump(s)
6. multiple pumps for redundancy
7. float switch on all pumps
8. double mechanical timers ganged together on hose (for any top offs/refills)
9. floaters IN pond for direct water column nutrient extraction and additional shade. Might need net pots for fish protection.
10. a place to actually sit RIGHT NEXT TO THE POND
11. shelves; 4" x 8" along perimeter for 'hiding-liner-stones'
12. optional shelves; 12" down for various pond plantings
13. a shallow area for different plantings/fry/tadpoles/turtle babies
14. plant creeping ground cover-like plants along edges to naturalize stone borders
15. a NET tight to the ground to keep the herons and other predators outta your pond and is the only deterrent without fish loss horror stories.
16. if you have ground water issues, a release system to stop any 'hippos' from forming; this can be done by burying a vertical 1" pvc pipe next to the liner and soil, from bottom of pond to just over grade, pointed away from pond. Now hydrostatic pressure will push any ground water buildup out this pipe.
17. learn how many fish/animals your pond can EASILY house and have them thrive.
18. unless you have chlorine/chloramines in your source water, NO CHEMS, not even for algae is necessary for successful ponding.
19. logs, large and small boulders, to naturalize the area including beyond the pond perimeter.
20. GFCI outlets scattered around your pond for easy access
21. wye and tee plumbing pieces AT the pump to get multiple feeds for more options
22. if no waterfall, an aerator stone
23. learn the nitrogen cycle
24. liquid water test kits like API for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, and a separate KH test
25. liner should be HDRPE or EPDM with underlayment; most other types will decay/rot/crack quickly
26. if using large boulders IN the pond, extra pieces of liner under them. Rocking your pond is an option, not a requirement.
27. a tie to the pump(s) to easily lift them out when cleaning
28. KEEP PUMP(S) OFF the pond bottom by 12"
29. berm around the pond so any runoff does NOT get into pond
30. if concrete pond, have a professional do it or REALLY learn how it should be done as this type generally cracks over time.
31. A bottom drain is NOT a necessity but convenient.
32. A UV light is NOT a necessity
33. 1000 gallons for the first koi, 250-500 gallons for each additional

[j.w]

More great advice @brokensword